Taste of the Fiords: A Culinary Journey Through Milford Sound

Nestled in the heart of Fiordland, Milford Sound is renowned for its breathtaking landscapes. But beneath the towering cliffs and misty waterfalls lies a lesser-known treasure: a rich tapestry of flavours that tell the story of this unique corner of New Zealand. Join me as we embark on a culinary journey through Milford Sound, from forest to fiord, plate to palate.

Foraging Adventures: Edible Plants and Traditional Māori Ingredients

Our gastronomic exploration begins in the lush rainforests that cloak the fiords. Here, under the guidance of local Māori chef Rangi Tairoa, I discover a world of flavours hidden in plain sight.

"Our ancestors knew the forest as their pantry," Rangi explains as we carefully pick tender fern fronds known as pikopiko. "These aren't just plants; they're a connection to our past and a gift for our future."

We gather a bounty of native ingredients:

1. Horopito (Pseudowintera colorata): Known as the "Māori pepper," its leaves add a spicy kick to dishes.
2. Kawakawa (Piper excelsum): Its distinctive heart-shaped leaves are used in teas and to flavour meats.
3. Pikopiko (Asplenium bulbiferum): These delicate fern fronds are a delicacy when blanched and dressed with olive oil.

Tasting Note: The horopito leaves have an unexpected heat that builds slowly, complemented by the earthy notes of the pikopiko. It's a taste of the forest itself, vibrant and alive.

A Hangi Feast

As dusk falls, we return to Rangi's family marae (meeting grounds) where a traditional hangi is being prepared. This underground oven, lined with hot rocks, will slowly steam our foraged ingredients along with kumara (sweet potato), pork, and local lamb.

Chef's Insight: "The hangi isn't just about cooking," Rangi shares. "It's about community, about connecting with the land. Each meal is a celebration of who we are and where we come from."

The resulting feast is a revelation: tender meats infused with earthy flavours, vegetables that taste of smoke and stone, all elevated by our foraged herbs. It's not just a meal; it's a centuries-old tradition brought to life.

Seafood Delights: From Crayfish to Blue Cod

No culinary journey through Milford Sound would be complete without sampling the bounty of the fiords. The next morning finds me aboard the Sinbad, a small fishing vessel captained by third-generation fisherman, Dave Johnson.

"The fiord's unique environment makes for some of the best seafood you'll ever taste," Dave grins as he hauls in a crayfish pot teeming with these prized crustaceans.

Our catch of the day includes:

1. Crayfish (rock lobster): Sweet, succulent, and a true delicacy of the region.
2. Blue Cod: A firm, white-fleshed fish with a delicate flavour.
3. Green-lipped Mussels: Larger and more flavourful than their Northern Hemisphere cousins.

Sustainability Note: The Fiordland Marine Guardians closely manage these waters to ensure sustainable fishing practices. It's a delicate balance of preserving tradition and protecting the environment.

Luncheon on the Fiord

We moor in a secluded cove where Dave transforms our morning's catch into a spectacular lunch. The crayfish, simply grilled with garlic butter, is sweet and impossibly tender. The blue cod, pan-fried with kawakawa leaves, flakes at the touch of a fork.

But the star of the show is Dave's secret recipe seafood chowder, brimming with mussels, cod, and local seaweed. "The secret," he winks, "is letting the fiord do most of the work. When you have ingredients this good, you don't need to do much."

Wine Pairing: A crisp Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc perfectly complements the seafood, its citrus notes enhancing the fresh flavours of the fiord.

Farm-to-Table Experiences in Nearby Te Anau

As we bid farewell to the fiords, our culinary journey takes us to the nearby town of Te Anau, where the lush farmlands provide a different palette of flavours.

The Stacks Farmhouse

At The Stacks Farmhouse, chef and owner Laura Stack has created a menu that celebrates the best of local produce. "We're lucky here," Laura explains. "We have access to incredible ingredients, from venison and lamb to heritage vegetables grown right here on the farm."

I'm treated to a tasting menu that showcases the region's terroir:

1. Fiordland venison carpaccio with foraged herbs and pikopiko
2. Te Anau lamb rump with kumara puree and horopito jus
3. Locally-grown heirloom tomatoes with buffalo mozzarella from the nearby dairy

Chef's Philosophy: "Our menu changes with the seasons," Laura notes. "It's about respecting the ingredients and the hard work of our local farmers and producers."

Redcliff Cafe

No visit to Te Anau is complete without stopping at the iconic Redcliff Cafe. Here, chef Adam Kerr has been championing local ingredients for over two decades.

"We've always believed in the power of local," Adam says as he presents his famous venison pie. "It's not just about food miles; it's about supporting our community and showcasing the incredible flavours of Fiordland."

Must-Try Dish: The venison pie, with its rich, gamey filling and flaky pastry, is a Redcliff institution. Paired with a Central Otago Pinot Noir, it's the taste of Fiordland in a dish.

Pairing Local Wines with Fiordland-Inspired Dishes

While Fiordland itself isn't a wine-growing region, the nearby Central Otago vineyards produce world-class wines that pair beautifully with local cuisine. I sat down with Sarah Thompson, sommelier at the Milford Sound Lodge, for a tasting session.

"The key is to find wines that complement rather than overpower the delicate flavours of our local ingredients," Sarah explains. Her recommendations include:

1. Central Otago Pinot Noir with Fiordland venison
2. Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc with blue cod or crayfish
3. Hawke's Bay Chardonnay with creamy seafood dishes
4. Nelson Riesling with pikopiko and other foraged greens

Tasting Insight: The mineral notes in the Central Otago Pinot Noir beautifully echo the granite cliffs of the fiords, while its berry flavours complement the rich venison.

Conclusion: A Feast for the Senses

As my culinary journey through Milford Sound comes to an end, I'm struck by how the flavours of this region are as dramatic and unforgettable as its landscapes. From the earthy depths of a hangi to the briny freshness of fiord-caught seafood, each bite tells a story of place, people, and tradition.

The cuisine of Milford Sound and Fiordland is more than just sustenance; it's a celebration of the unique environment that shapes it. It's a reminder that great food, like great natural beauty, has the power to move us, to connect us with the land and its history.

Whether you're foraging for native herbs, hauling in crayfish pots, or simply savouring a glass of local wine as the sun sets over Mitre Peak, the tastes of Milford Sound will linger long after your visit. It's a culinary adventure that nourishes not just the body, but the soul.

Ready to taste the flavours of Fiordland for yourself? Start planning your culinary journey to Milford Sound today. Book a foraging tour, reserve a table at a local farm-to-table restaurant, or simply pack a picnic of local delicacies to enjoy amidst the stunning scenery. Your taste buds will thank you for the adventure!